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FRONT PAGE | A SOUTH AMERICAN PICTURES FEATURE |
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It was early in 1533 when three Spaniards became the first outsiders to set eyes upon the gilded walls of the Qorikancha, an extraordinary sacred place in Qosco, Peru, spiritual centre of the Inkas. ''Everywhere they looked they were overwhelmed by the treasures and by the ways of the Inkas" . The story of the death of Atahuallpa the Inka/ Inca ruler and the sack of the empire has been told and retold. The gold has gone but much of the ancient fabric remains. Qosco is one of the world's greatest heritage sites. | |
Cusco
- Cuzco or Qosqo? Has
the name changed again? Back in Inka days it seems that the name was closer
to 'Qosqo' than the two more recent spellings. As there was no written Inka
language it has been the passing down of the spoken word in the local Quechua
language that is important.
In 1991 experts in Cusco decided that the true name for their city should
be written as Qosqo. They even produced a thesis and from that day
onwards names all over the city reverted to their original Inka roots.
If
you have followed earlier books and maps of the city you could be confused
by the recent changes to the original Quechua names. Qosqo,
a book available only in Peru has background to the name. Small
signs in glazed tiles now mark the streets. One example is the fine Inka way
known as Loreto since Spanish times. The name came from the dedication of
a small chapel beside the Jesuit church - that is on the right of the picture.
The street is now named Intik'ijllu - meaning 'the narrow
way of the sun'. To the left of the picture stands the fine, original
Inka wall of the enclosure that surrounded the aclla huasi or wasi,
perhaps best known as the 'House of the Chosen Virgins' - euphemistically,
the 'Maidens of the Sun'. Acllas
were the most perfectly formed of the young women from around the empire and
were specially selected for a place in the accla wasi in Qosqo.
They were devoted to working for the reigning Inka and should they ever stray
from the chaste path, they and the male offender were severely punished.
Ancient
Qosqo was not so much a city as a spiritual centre. The name is often translated
as 'navel' but that is not perfect as the word has no simple meaning.
Perhaps the nearest connection is something akin to 'solar plexus',
a central point, and in Qosqo that was the Great Square, or Aucaypata
and the nearby Sun Temple, the Qorikancha, set in a gilded enclosure
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Until
recently the Great Square was known as the Plaza de Armas - today it is marked
Haucaypata. Once it was surrounded by palaces of the Inka rulers, state buildings
and the kiswar kancha, a temple to the creator god. The Spaniards
reduced the temple to rubble and built the present cathedral on the same spot.
The foundation stone was laid in 1560 but due to delays and an earthquake
in 1650, the building was not completed until 1654.
It
is one of the great Spanish cathedrals of the Americas and the interior houses
many fine paintings by 18th century artists of the 'Cusco School'. One
painting of The Last Supper by Marcos
Zapata clearly reveals the extraordinary mixture of Spanish and Native American
beliefs that abounds even in present day Andean culture. Zapata
came from a nearby village and he saw nothing unusual in painting a roasted
guinea pig on the central dish. The guinea pig (Cavia sp) or
cui is native to the highlands around Qosqo and is kept running freely
in homes as a ready delicacy for the table.

Such is the richness of Qosqo's history that this page will be expanded with a variety of topics so look out for FEATURES as they are published. One special Feature story will cover the ancient spiritual beliefs connected with the Sun Temple in the Qorikancha. These were described in Tony Morrison's TV film and book of the late 1970's, 'Pathways to the Gods'
The
book Pathways to the Gods is out-of- print in hardcover but may be
found in libraries or second hand on line by the number 0-06-013057-4 (USA)
and 0-85955-053-2 (United Kingdom). The paperback, ISBN 0-89733-282-2 is still
available from Academy Chicago Publishers, Chicago. USA.
The
theme of the film and the book covers the ceques, a linear arrangement
of sacred shrines arranged around the Sun Temple and a comparison with the
famous Nasca Lines. The arrangement of the shrines and their importance
was recorded in the 17th century. Some of the shrines are visible today and
still venerated by the native American people.
| 'Qosqo- The Navel of the World' by Tony Morrison and profusely illustrated is not yet available outside Latin America. It has an ISBN 9972-648-00-1, [ a Peruvian number] and is published and distributed by Special Book Services, Av La Molina 477, Lima 3, PERU. It was designed and printed in Brasil |
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If
any reader would like to add information or suggest corrections, please
send an e-mail to the editor. The addresses are not linked.
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